By Blair, on September 2nd, 2010
We’re three days into the roadtrip, and are averaging one good adventure per day.
The first day, we arrived to the guesthouse in Chiang Dao (once again), and Tom pulled off the bed comforter to take an afternoon nap. A huge lizard, about the size of the length of our face, was sitting there greeting him. Tom thought it was fake, a little joke played on us by the ‘Nature House’ hostel. But it was no joke, as the lizard sensed his vulnerability and jumped (as though he had wings) from the bed to the wall, then in one jump all the way to the other wall, where he scurried out the window. From this point on, the first thing we do when we’re in our room is to pull down the comforter to check for any ‘friends.’
Our next adventure had us motorbiking up a huge hill (Doi Tung), and realizing near the top that we were quite low on gas. Our destination, another Wat no doubt, was just a few kilometers up, and so we chugged along at a slow pace, crossing our fingers that we would miraculously find some gasoline at the top. We did make it, but had no such luck with the gas, and so spent the next 20 minutes or so coasting down the mountain, in neutral, so as to make it safely to the bottom with some gas to spare. We made it. Boo yeah.
And today, we made our way to the Golden Triangle. When we had coffee this morning and told the waitress of our plan, she warned us that it was a ‘fix road.’ It took us a good five minutes for us to understand that they were fixing the road, or that it was under some sort of construction. We thanked her for the information, and plugged along anyway. Well, what greeted us were maybe 10 patches of 100-200 meter stretches of complete mud and water. We sloshed along, with Tom’s feet soaking up the muddy goodness on either side of the bike to prevent us from falling in. After an hour, we made it out, completely covered in mud from our knees down. Thankfully, a lady allowed us to use a bucket of water in her garage/store to wash up.
By Blair, on August 29th, 2010
It’s on.
For the next week, Tom and I will be motorbiking around north-eastern Thailand. We currently don’t have a route planned, but we do have a map, and that’s a start. After the trip, our 30-day visa runs out, so we’ll take a bus to northern Laos and continue the adventure there.
We’ll be safe, and I’m pretty sure we’ll be happy.
Oh, and let the countdown begin for Tom’s big 3-0. Officially 17 days and counting.
On the trip, I’m pretty sure we’ll drink some Thai Iced Tea:
We’ll run into beautiful flowers:
We’ll eat some freshly picked fruit:
We’ll see some seriously gorgeous wats (or temples)
And we’ll stay on the road:
By Blair, on August 28th, 2010
Today was great.
We rode scooters up a green mountain on a windy road. We visited a temple and got caught in a rain storm. We strolled through the gardens of a palace. And we drove through the clouds on the way home.
Today was also great because we got to hang out again with Justin, and I beat the boys in the card game hearts, in a death defying come from behind win.
Today also was a learning experience. I learned that Sandrina, my friend from the massage course, has a lot of patience and trust. Even after I tipped us over on the scooter trying to make it up a hill, she was kind and soothing. Tom learned that when opening the packet of a cheap plastic rain poncho, that he shouldn’t pull too hard or he’ll rip a hole in said poncho before trying it on. And Justin learned that he loved wearing his poncho, even when there’s no rain.
We also learned that Thai drivers are AWESOME. There’s organized anarchy (term coined by jWhite) on the road, and somehow everyone figures it out.
Starting the trip up the mountain to Wat Doi Suthep:
At temple Wat Doi Suthep:
In the gardens at the Bhuping Palace:
Tom’s tuxedo Thai fisherman pants, which he was required to rent and wear while we were at the palace, due to the strict (ie: no-shorts) dress code:
Justin showing some mad intimidation skills:
By Blair, on August 28th, 2010
Yesterday, I completed (and graduated from!) a one week, 30-hour Thai Massage course here in Chiang Mai. Every morning, after a delicious breakfast of pancakes and mangos, I’d walk the two blocks from our guesthouse to ITM, the massage school.
Each morning, we would spend 45 minutes practicing a mixture of yoga, tai-chi, and qi gong. We could be found, at any particular moment, ballet dancing, marching, and bouncing our knees and wrists. The music was extremely comical, and I found it difficult on numerous occasions to keep a straight face as we humored the teachers and bounced around with them. Although I do admit, I felt pretty energized and relaxed after the morning routine, so maybe I’ll have to incorporate some aspects into my morning. Maybe.
After exercises, we’d spend a few hours learning thai massage techniques and then practicing on each other. My level one group had 9 students, and we were from everywhere: Canada, Belarus, Ireland, Australia, Portugal, and England to be exact. And my two homies, Sandrina and Darren, are currently working in Congo and Bahrain, respectively.
It was very refreshing, and really a novel idea, to be in a classroom setting after ten months of no work/study. I enjoyed the camaraderie, I enjoyed the learning, and I even enjoyed the homework, although I suspect that’s because it was mostly coloring.
It was a very quick and brief beginner’s course, but I feel confident that I have a base to build on. After all, the most important concept that the head teacher wanted us to take away is that in Thai Massage, everyone wears clothing, and that there are no happy endings. So I did learn that.
We may come back to Chiang Mai at the end of our Asia leg in December so I can take one or two more weeks of classes. Maybe. Let’s not make any fixed plans or anything.
Morning Exercise:
What we’re supposed to do:
My attempt:
And my apology:
Group Picture (all levels)
By Blair, on August 23rd, 2010
After a few unplanned off-road experiences within the first few minutes, Tom and I thoroughly enjoyed the hour motorcycle (really, it’s a scooter) ride through Chiang Dao. It was officially awesome.
In other news, we’re back in Chiang Mai, where I am taking a week long Thai Massage course. Tom will probably spend this week eating Thai food … and stuff.
Pics from our first moto-excursion:
Rice Paddies:
By Tom, on August 21st, 2010
Arriving in Chiang Dao a few days ago, Blair and I made our way out of the small bus terminal built for about four buses, and onto the main road. It was hard to say whether we had passed the town center on the way in. Looking to our right down the road where the bus had come from, the small collection of buildings stood 500 meters off or so, maybe large enough to be the central hub of this tiny town. We started off in that direction in hopes of finding transportation to our lodge, which was several kilometers out.
It was lunchtime, so before getting ahead of ourselves we ducked into the first place that looked like it served food, dropped our bags, and got to it. It became apparent that our English might not serve us as well in Chiang Dao as it had in tourist laden Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Ordering was easy enough with translations in English on the menu, but when the bill came, we realized they had not charged us for a fruit shake. We tried to convey this to our server, who did not understand at all. Then she proceeded to go behind the counter and make a second shake for us. Blair and I were at a loss. I rushed over, pointed at what she was doing, saying, “No shake for us.” Pointing at our bill again, I tried to explain. She proceeded to shake her head and giggle with the other serving girl. I turned back to Blair sitting at the table, and she had lost it, laughing hard with tears in her eyes. I sat back down, laughing with Blair, and waited for round two. Turns out the shake was for another table. We just let it go and accepted the free shake, tipping a bit more than usual on the way out. Maybe you had to be there to get the humor of the whole messy situation.
Next we found an ATM, loaded up on cash, and started looking for means of transportation to Chiang Dao Nest, our lodge. We didn’t see anything. No one asking us where we were going, gone were the taxis of Bangkok and the covered pickup trucks of Chiang Mai, not even the ubiquitous tuk-tuk, which is basically a motorbike rickshaw. As we drew up to the intersection in town that would lead us out to the Nest, a man under shop awning asked if we needed a ride. We said ‘yes’ and he got on his cell phone to rally a friend to help take us out there. We were about to ride our first motorbike taxis.
His friend was long in arriving, and it began to rain. I had seen a bunch of people in Chiang Mai ride on the back of these things in the rain armed with umbrellas. I figured I should do the same and located my umbrella, ready to emulate the Thai locals. As I was trying to get my pack situated, the other driver finally arrived and swung his bike under our awning. Blair hopped on bike, and I awkwardly made my way onto the other one, my top heavy pack weighing us down awkwardly. I found grips on the side of the seat, inside my thighs, grabbed on tight and tried to juggle my closed umbrella. All that effort and the drizzle had stopped. I don’t think I could have managed an umbrella, anyway.
The ride, lasting only 15 minutes, went from pleasant, to pleasantly surreal. Within seconds, we were in the countryside, all rice paddies and wilderness. In the close distance loomed Chiang Dao Mountain, some 7,000ft high, farms butting up against it’s steep, jungled slopes. The vibrant green of everything commanded attention. I would pull my eyes away from it to make sure we were still on the road, and I would see Blair’s bike ahead of us, cruising gracefully along in this idyllic setting. The second half of the trip had is sweeping through turns seemingly meant for a motorbike. Trees cast patchy shadows on the road that Blair’s bike was happy to pass through. All of this imagery was heightened by the smell of fresh rainfall. Seriously guys, it was like a freaking movies scene, absolutely gorgeous.
That was Wednesday morning. Tonight, Blair and I are hatching plans to recreate that feeling, mostly due to an encounter with a Kiwi yesterday who highly recommended a motorbike tour around northern Thailand. Baby steps. Tomorrow we will rent a motorbike to take around Chiang Dao and if all goes well, we’ll probably look to do a weekly rental our last week in Thailand.
The rest of Chiang Dao Mountain is hiding in the clouds:
Roadside mangos(?):
Wat Tham Pha Plong, outside of Chiang Dao:
By Blair, on August 21st, 2010
Today, Tom and I got talking about the difference between our travels now, and the earlier travels of our trip. We’re both feeling strong, upbeat, and energized. I wondered aloud if this has to do with the fact that we’re on the second half of our trip and have learned from our earlier mistakes, or if Thailand is a place comfortable travel, or for me if it is the fact that we’ve made the decision to head back to San Diego.
I’m pretty sure it’s a combination of all three.
I’ve been re-focusing on the studio, and am stoked that we’re currently #2 in a prominent San Diego poll for best yoga studio. In the previous two years, we didn’t make the top five, and to be so high is a testament to many.
If you’ve been to Pilgrimage (and thoroughly enjoyed the experience), please take a few minutes to cast your vote here.
Mom and Dad, I’m looking at you.
By Blair, on August 19th, 2010
Yesterday was a success.
We started the day with an a.m.a.z.i.n.g breakfast, which included local fruit crepes for me, and a good ol’ western style breakfast for Tom. We then loaded up on the sunscreen and bug repellant, and headed to the Chiang Dao Cave.
A word about caves: if you are at all claustrophobic, or have any fear of bats, I would not enter them. Luckily,these two caveats do not apply to myself or Tom, and so we entered joyfully.
We hired a mandatory guide for the dark cave, and spent a little under an hour exploring the huge labyrinth. Armed with a lantern, we crawled (literally) through some tight spaces, slipped on some wet rock, and enjoyed the bats. My favorite was our guide, who every minute or so would point out an interesting formation, and would say, “Look like _______.” We ended up ’seeing’ elephants, elephant footprints, and elephant lung (!?). We also saw lions, waterfalls, horses, and a fried egg. I would say that 90% of the formations really didn’t look like the alleged subject, but a few did. We even took a photo in what “Looked like picture frame.”
After our cave adventure, we explored the surrounding area a bit, and then headed to the phallic shaped pool of our sister hostel. It was beautiful, and we enjoyed many sun showers as we played in the water.
Today we’ll rent mountain bikes and hopefully not crash. Wish us luck!
Our Current Home:
Tom in Small Spaces:
Together in a ‘Picture Frame’:
Outside the Caves:
I bought this insect repellant (or so I think):
From this kind woman:
By Blair, on August 18th, 2010
Yesterday, we arrived to the quiet, mountain town of Chiang Dao, thanks to the recommendation of our friend Ian (hi Ian!) back in San Diego. It’s beautiful, quiet, and um BEAUTIFUL!
We took a walk yesterday evening, looking for a local place to eat. On the way, we ran into three young girls who smiled, bowed, and said, “Hello” in Thai. I smiled, bowed, and said, “Thank you” in return. Tom got a good laugh out of it, and I think the girls did too.
We stopped at a humble home, and I ordered rice with fried egg (instead of fried rice with egg as I had intended), and Tom had a pork dish. The elder woman who was serving us was so kind, and I asked her at the end of the meal if I could take her picture. She either didn’t understand or didn’t want to, so I smiled and put my camera away. One minute later she was back and in a picture taking mood. So I took a few shots, and she smiled and said, “I not beautiful.” I laughed, told her she was, and showed her the picture. She replied proudly that she was 70 years old. Boo yeah.
After dinner, we stood on the sidewalk as a big ornate bus passed us on this one lane road. We were surprised as we had only seen motorbikes up to this point. And so we looked to see who it was, and in every window, school children were waving and smiling frantically at the farang (tourists) on the side of the road.
That’s one of the huge differences between here and Mozambique. In Mozambique, people (mainly adults) would stare for days without a hint of a smile. And here, the children wave frantically, and the adults smile and say hello (not thank you). One part of me thinks that we shouldn’t be so attached to greetings, but it feels so dang good.
One beautiful 70-year old:
Their turn:
My turn:
And Tom:
Our beautiful, green, hot, humid, and damp world:
By Blair, on August 18th, 2010
Yesterday, Tom and I went on the traditional farang (tourist) activity of attending a Thai cooking course in Chiang Mai. And it was awesome.
We chose one that was located on an organic farm, and while all of our ingredients did not come from the farm, it was good to see how their garden worked. We started the day at a local market, learning about noodles, rice, and coconut milk and cream. Did you know that the Thai label the year that the rice was picked, such that you know how much water to cook it with. It’s another variation of vintage wine… or something. We were able to wander about, take some pictures and talk to the vendors as our teacher picked up the ingredients for the day.
We arrived to the farm, learned about the various plants and herbs that they grow, and cooked FIVE dishes each. Our teacher, nicknamed Nice (seriously), was pretty sweet. She summed up Thai vegetables and their petite size by simply stating that everything in Thailand is small. I imagined trying to say that about America, and quickly pushed that thought from my head.
The food we produced was pretty delicious. I made yellow curry, chicken in coconut milk, papaya salad, phad thai, and mango with sticky rice. I’ve decided that hence forth mango with sticky rice will be my potluck contribution of choice. Tom made green curry, Tom Yam with shrimp (soup), chicken with cashew nuts, spring rolls, and bananas in coconut milk. With so much food, we took some home, and didn’t find a need to have dinner at night.
I appreciated the course not just for the farm or the food, but for opening the invisible door that I feel with cooking. Even though I had a teacher, a preparation and a clean up crew, I cooked the food. And it was delicious. Granted, when I’m at home, I won’t be using fresh coconut milk or some of the more exotic veggies and herbs, but I’m not afraid to try.
And yes, we’ll have you all over for dinner.
Rice at the Market:
Mortar and Pestle for Curry:
Awesome Aprons:
Banana Tree in the Garden:
Cooking!
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